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MASTER Level Course: "Your Design" Garments

The #400 Series Classes:

* OK, you now have the basics from the previous classes, so let's take your experience to the next level and really make your garments special. 

* You will need to purchase this pattern which will be used in this series:

Butterick #5627 (sizes 6-22) or #5628 (sizes 16W-32W) For bodice sloper 

* The inspirational design patterns are Vogue #8772 Classic Shirt, Simplicity #2451 Fitted Lined Skirt, or McCall's #3830. 

To purchase these patterns directly from the Butterick website go HERE.

To purchase these patterns directly from the Vogue pattern company website go HERE.

* Classes for the more advanced sewers only that want to add a new level to their skills. I can't tell you how many people have quit sewing because of fitting issues on their patterns. Let's fix that!

* Start by making your Master Pattern from the Custom Bodice Sloper and you will understand more of what your body's needs. Then, other custom garments are designed from your inspirational ideas.

* The designing classes are to help you understand how to manipulate the darts and change style lines. A lot of pattern work is done in the Bodice Sloper class, but everyone that finishes has commented that they really enjoyed the challenge of figuring it all out (fitting their body that is). 

My top, in the picture above, was created from my Master Pattern along with an inspirational pattern for the design elements like the sweetheart neckline and faced front opening. I made it for my niece's New Years' Eve wedding. It was a remake from a Silk Brocade dress that my mother had made probably in the 70's. My brother said he actually remembered our mother wearing the dress which made the wedding even more memorable for both of us.

#401 The Custom Bodice Sloper: The Fitting Shell Master Pattern

Butterick #5627/#5628

Class Fee: $99--Includes (2) 1/2 hour sessions on Skype or computer for individual assistance.

*** Only for the advanced sewer.

* This class has been developed using a combination of "Pattern Drafting" techniques and "Flat Pattern Measuring" techniques.

*** Fitting yourself is very difficult if you just start with a fitting muslin made right out of the envelope. In this class, I will teach you how to measure the entire pattern, measure your own body, and make changes on the pattern in small increments to fit your body--on the pattern first! Then, we cut out and sew your "fitting shell" and try it on. Tweaking the muslin might take several try-ons, but with an opening in the center front you can easily pin yourself into it. I'll show you what to look for after that so you can pin in the changes that make sense.

* We will use Butterick #5627 as our basic pattern to make our sloper.

* You will be shown where to take your personal measurements on your body, and then where and how to alter the basic pattern all before cutting out the muslin.

* Detailed instructions are given to make up your muslin fitting shell and fit it to the body for fine-tuning.

* A second muslin is usually made to test the alterations you've added to the pattern. And, sometimes a third muslin is needed for extensive alterations.

* This class helps you to understand WHY patterns fit the way they do with the correlation between areas like the armhole, bust darts, and sleeves.

* Your Master Pattern can then be utilized to compare with other commercial patterns or even better, to use to design your own styles and not have to re-fit another pattern.

Sewing Techniques: Pattern Drafting and Flat Pattern Measuring techniques, full bust adjustments (FBA), extensive and detailed pattern work

Suggested Pattern: Butterick #5627 (sizes 6 to 22), or #5628 (sizes 16W to 32W); Alternative pattern Vogue#1004.

To purchase these patterns directly from the Butterick/McCall's website go HERE.

To purchase the patterns directly from the Vogue pattern company website go HERE.  

#402 Designing Techniques for Your Bodice Sloper:

Dart transfers, button extensions, sleeves, collars and skirts

Class Fee: $19.99

* Take your fitting shell "Master Pattern" and make something fun, just like these ladies did to make their Chanel Jackets and a Vest.

* I will teach you what the design elements are in your bodice sloper and skirt sloper to make the styles you want to create.

* We discuss necklines, sleeve shapes, body shapes, skirt shapes and more.

* We will draft a center front extension to add buttons.

* We will transfer the side bust dart and move it to the armhole or shoulder for princess seams.

* Move the side bust dart again and create beautiful gathers or pleats off of a front yoke. 

* Add a back yoke and determine what to do with the back shoulder dart.

* From the basic sleeve pattern, you will draft a blouse sleeve with a cuff and a 2-piece jacket sleeve.

* Draft a simple collar and collar band.

* Attach the lower (cut-off) skirt section of your sloper back onto the hipline of the upper skirt we used, blend the seams and you have your completed skirt pattern! And, much more!

Sewing Techniques: No sewing, detailed pattern work

Suggested Pattern: Completed Custom Bodice Sloper or another basic fitted garment pattern

Photo Above: These ladies created their Chanel-styled jackets and a vest from their Master Patterns. They worked very hard on all the steps required to complete these beautiful garments.

#403 Designing a Classic White Shirt: from the Finished Bodice Sloper Master Pattern

Class Fee: $19.99

* You will need a traced copy of your finished Master Pattern for this class, or use our inspiration pattern to complete your shirt. This will be a very detailed class.

* Design and sew a classic fitted shirt with the fitted darts from your sloper, long sleeves with cuffs and a continuous lap, a center front button opening, and a collar with a band.

* Custom-drafted details for sewing the shirt. This will be similar to View D of the Vogue pattern if you don't want to draft your elements from your custom bodice sloper.

* A Ready-to-wear technique is taught to attach the collar band that looks very professional. This is a great over-shirt to wear with Leggings. Lots of pattern work.

* This is the Fifteenth piece of your Core Wardrobe. See the plan HERE.

Sewing Techniques: Altering the Master Pattern for a blouse, how to sew the perfect dart, how to sew a fish-eye dart for the waist shaping, changing the fitted sleeve to a blouse sleeve with pleats, a continuous lap and cuff, adding a center front button opening, drafting a collar and band, seam finishing and top-stitching techniques, and use of interfacings.

Suggested Pattern: Traced copy of your Master Pattern or Alternative pattern Vogue #8772. To purchase the pattern from the Vogue website go HERE.

How long to make this garment: About 2 hours to do the pattern work for your shirt, about 3-4 hours to sew the shirt

#404 Designing a Custom Fitted Skirt: from the finished Bodice Sloper Master Pattern

Class Fee: $19.99

* Take the skirt section of the Bodice Sloper or alternative pattern like Simplicity #2451 (out of print but available from an online seller) or Buttterick #5719, or McCall's #3830, and make some more design changes.

* The skirt sloper pattern must already be fitted and the final draft of the pattern done before we can start designing our elements.

* From the Skirt Sloper, design the size and shape of your front pockets, front and back yoke, and a lowered waist. Add a zipper to the center back seam.

* Option, adding welt pockets or some pleats to replace the darts.

* Add the kick pleat for walking comfort

* Add a lining to your skirt and learn the sewing techniques to attach to the kick pleat.

* This is the Sixteenth piece of your Core Wardrobe. See the plan HERE.

Sewing Techniques: Changing and making new pattern pieces, moving darts, center back zipper opening, topstitching, making the yokes, adding a kick pleat and lining.

Suggested Pattern: Completed Custom Skirt Sloper or Alternative Pattern Simplicity #2451, Butterick #5719, or McCall's #3830.

How long to make this garment: approximately 5-6 hours including the pattern work.

Master Class BONUS: Custom Design Your Little Black Dress using your Finished Bodice Sloper Master Pattern

Class Fee: $19.99 OR FREE when you register for all 4 of the Master Level Classes #401-#404 

* This class is to make a custom designed dress like the Vogue patterns here.

* Add seamlines to your Master Pattern to create new styles

* Add seam allowances in different amounts depending on where the seam is to be sewn

* Add underlining and lining to the Master Pattern

* The entire dress is sewn in this class to show all the techniques to make a stunning dress.

Sewing Techniques: Detailed pattern work, understanding dart placement, grainline placement, and sewing the muslin mock-ups for fitting. Designing style lines.

Suggested Pattern: Your Custom Bodice/Skirt Sloper Master Pattern